Page 11 - Reside Magazine Lusk Associates

Reside — Spring 2025

Dempsey concurs. “There is a focus now
on the hyperlocal, the traceable, the site-
specific,” he says. It is even the case with
Champagne: people who used to simply
love Krug are now more excited about
their single-plot cuvées, Clos du Mesnil,
or Clos D’Ambonnay. Another advantage
of concentrating on individual vineyards Left: The wine tastes of collectors have
is that it is possible to collect them all. progressed from the grapes of Bordeaux to
And not just to lay down or to sell. Burgundy, where small lots are prized
Collectors, particularly younger ones, also Below: Traditionally, collectors used to buy
want to drink the wines. “They will buy at wine to lay down or sell, but younger buyers
are more inclined to enjoy the wines, too
village or Premier Cru level because they
want to really experience these wines and
the prices of the Grands Crus make that
difficult,” says Young. The wines needn’t
be mature, either. Where, once, Burgundy
under 20 years old was rarely seen at
auction, now the vintages from 2020 and
2021 come onto the market.
While many collectors store their wine in
professional cellars, to protect provenance,
every wine-lover’s home needs storage that
is kind to bottles. Ideally, that space will be
below ground, for temperature control,
including humidity. “People forget how
important it is to maintain 70% relative
humidity, particularly on the West Coast,
given the dry climate,” says Young. Bottles
should also be stored on their side, as having
the wine up against the cork helps prevent
it drying out; dried corks can shrink, allowing
in air, which can oxidize the wine and spoil
it. Also, if possible, the temptation to have
a showcase should be resisted. However
much people want to display their prize finds,
direct light is terrible for wine. “Even [window]
glass with ultraviolet protection isn’t ideal,”
he says. Wooden cases might hide their
contents from admiring eyes, but they
safeguard the bottles.
Young’s key advice to homebuyers
is: think big. “Architects or designers often
ask their clients: ‘How big a cellar do you
Photos: Dan Meyers/Unsplash, Edalin/iStock. a year every collector wishes they had asked
really need?’ And they may say 1,000 bottles
and think that’s more than enough, but within

for more space. I always advise them to
opt for the largest area that is realistic,
because it is much harder to extend.”
Nina Caplan is a wine, arts and travel
journalist and the drinks columnist
for Times Luxx

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